- René Lalique
This pectoral is one of the paradigms of René Lalique’s jewellery production, not only for the mastery of its execution, as for the theme chosen. Reptiles were a source of inspiration to which Lalique returned throughout his life not only for jewellery, but also for his glass, bronzes, etc.
The pectoral is made up of nine serpents entwined to form a knot from which the bodies of the other eight fall in a cascade, the ninth rising in the centre, at the top of the jewel. The reptiles, in the attack position, have their mouths open from which strings of pearls were hung as was apparently the case with a similar pectoral (the whereabouts of which are unknown), which was highlighted at the Paris Universal Exhibition in 1900 and reproduced in a publication of the period.
The present piece is thus probably the only one in existence. Calouste Gulbenkian acquired it directly from the artist in 1908.
Acquired by Calouste Gulbenkian from René Lalique in February 1908.
H. 21 cm; W. 14.3 cm
Sigrid Barten – René Lalique. Schmuck und Objets d’art, 1890-1910, München, 1977, p. 392, no. 947
Vivienne Becker – Art Nouveau Jewellery, London, 1985, pl. 59
Karl Shuker – Dragons. A Natural History, London, 1995, p. 106
Nissenson and Jonas 1995
Marilyn Nissenson and Susan Jonas – Snake Charm, New York, 1995, pp. 112 e 114-115
Rona Goffen (ed.) – Museums discovered: The Calouste Gulbenkian Museum, Fort Lauderdale, Florida, 1995, p. 155, colourpl.
Gomes Ferreira 1997
Maria Teresa Gomes Ferreira – Lalique. Jóias, Lisboa, Museu Calouste Gulbenkian, 1997, pp. 240-241, no. 65, colourpl. (also available in French translation)
New York 1999
“Only the Best”. Masterpieces of the Calouste Gulbenkian Museum, Lisbon, exhibition catalogue, Katharine Baetjer e James David Draper (eds.) – New York (The Metropolitan Museum of Art), 1999, pp. 150-151, no. 72, colourpl.
Calouste Gulbenkian Museum – Album, Lisbon, Calouste Gulbenkian Museum, 2001, p. 172, no. 148, colourpl.
Calouste Gulbenkian Museum – Album, Lisbon, Calouste Gulbenkian Museum, 2011, p. 195, no. 174, colourpl.